PC Part Picker FEEDBACK PLEASE

[Satan]

UPDATED LIST AGAIN: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/nzBvRv

pc peeps, give me suggestions.

The goal of the computer is the following:

- Be able to record videos with stable and 60+ FPS (Minecraft Bedwars I keep seeing people having 1000 FPS on their screen but OBS records 60 FPS so idk wtf is up with that, but also may try Apex Legends, and other games if I want to)

- Be able to play games smoothly while exporting an edited video (will be using Filmora 11)

Budget is $2500

DO NOT JUDGE MY KEYBOARD CHOICE, I like the SCISSOR KEYS TO BE QUIET AS POSSIBLE WHEN TYPING OR GAMING HMPH

 

[Satan]

I can get 1000 FPS in game but the recording won't be at 1000, nobody records in 1k fps it'd take years to render if HD. Max ive seen done and be reasonable is 120FPS recording then 60fps render.

Post automatically merged: May 31, 2022

You need to think also of the people watching on their phones, or on 60hz monitors they really can't tell

Right, i dont need the recording to be 1000 FPS... I just want the counter to show up as such. I wasn't able to do that so far on my macbook... I like to see 1000 FPS with an overkill PC but the video is exported as 60 FPS...

 

[Kuchy]

I always hear that the nzxt cases have garbage airflow, maybe upgrade that as well.

The NZXT Flow is actually their best airflow case (granted the only one that has good airflow).

I don't think the op is trying to record at 1000 fps but is saying that whenever they start recording, the true game fps gets locked to 60fps whereas steamers they watch don't have this issue.
OBS off -> Game FPS 300
OBS on -> Game FPS 60
(Just an example of their issue)
Idk too much about obs but some related issues could be

• Screen the game is on is not set to main display
• Accidentally clicked SLI checkbox in the obs settings
• Try running the game in full screen windowed mode
• Or your current cpu just can't cope with that much multi tasking. You said you're on a laptop so maybe it just can't do all those tasks, especially one that requires consistent file writing.

I feel like the 4th issue is the reason. But I haven't tried reproducing the issue so I have no idea.

Gsync could also play a factor but I don't have a gsync monitor atm to test it.

Alright how about this? https://pcpartpicker.com/list/bWdbpH

Your new build is good. Meshify C was actually my original case option. It has great airflow, dust filters, and cable management (you do have to try to make it look good though). I'm pretty sure it's big enough but do double check dimensions. It does seem you have some budget left so you could get some case fans to top it off. If I recall, it only comes with 2. You can mount your aio up top (but will need to go down to a 240mm aio) or in the front. If you do the front, you'll have a gap though since that's only a dual fan rad but 280mm so you can't put in another fan to fill it. If that doesn't bother you, go for it. If you mount it up top you'll need a 240mm aio cause it doesn't support a 280mm one up top. You would also want to make sure you orient the fans to make the air from inside the case go through the aio and outside the case. You would most likely want to get some case fans too for the front. Just 1 3-pack would do.

In terms of airflow, you want positive pressure but not too much where the hot air gets stuck inside the case.
3 fans in the front (intake)
2 fans on top attached to rad - rad should be a 240mm (exhaust)
1 fan in the back, the included fan (exhaust)

If you want, go for a 360mm aio instead. Again, if you want. If you do... (also no need to buy a 3 pack case fan then)
3 fans in the front attached to rad - 360mm rad (intake)
1 fan up top, the included case fan (exhaust)
1 fan in back, the other included case fan (exhaust)

Otherwise, keep the 280mm aio and go with a front mount (if the gap won't bother you)
2 fans in the front attached to rad - 280mm rad (intake)
1 fan up top, the included case fan (exhaust)
1 fan in back, the other included case fan (exhaust)

 

[PradyXT]

Alright how about this? https://pcpartpicker.com/list/bWdbpH

looks good, always get a second opinion but looks good to me.

Cpu you could go with a 12700/f if youre not ocing. Expect similar overall performance for less. For the cooler, the one you have selected isn't worth it considering stuff like the Arctic Liquid Freezer II, EK AIO Basic/DRGB, etc exist with better performance at a similar price. For the mobo, iirc the X570 Tomahawk isn't great with better options for less (btw X570 only makes sense if you're utilizing the chipset features, some B550 mobos are better than some X570 mobos). There's a few options for a B660 mobo for the 12700f ranging from $130 to $180. The ram is a decent kit i'd say overall a good choice but I don't understand why you need 4x16. I recommend going for the MP33 2tb for $159.99 as its similar to the SN570 you have selected but for less. The gpu is a great buy, I don't know how you got a 3080 for 650 (below msrp) gg. Meshify C is lowkey a bit outdated, not really worth paying $100 for considering options like the p360a, p400a, 500dx, 4000d airflow (4000d + airflow panel $5 is less than just buying the 4000d airflow), nr600, etc. iirc the psu isn't great I can't really explain why as I'm not a psu person. I'd recommend the Enermax Revolution D.F 850w for $105 or wtv it is right now. iirc the Rev D.F is a CWT GPU platform based psu similar to the RMx, MSI AGF, etc.

For peripherals:
The G502 Mouse isn't a good choice. The weight distribution isn't good, the build quality is meh, the skates are subpar, the cable is bad, etc. I don't rlly have palm/ergo recs for $40 but I do have ftip/claw recs for the same price point. Just make sure wtv you're plugging into your usb hub fits within the power delivery available.

Here's my recommended list for you. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/CF7w3y
This list will offer you similar performance with sufficient or better components for approx $300 less than the cost of pure parts in the one you had. I did not include what you have already purchased in the price I compared to and in the list I created. This is probably a gray/black-out build color scheme.

 

[Satan]

I don't know how you got a 3080 for 650 (below msrp) gg

Friend of a scalper, gave me a homie deal.

Post automatically merged: May 31, 2022

The G502 Mouse isn't a good choice. The weight distribution isn't good, the build quality is meh

Ive been using it for a while and am essentially a lifelong customer lol. 4000 DPI with its large ish body is my cup of tea that I've grown used to. its kinda the same reason I want a sicssor key switch keyboard but didnt want to pay full Apple premium price (Pyrose)

 

[PradyXT]

In that case, go with this:
It might set you back a bit more than $1k with the current pricing, but if you already have the GPU then this is well worth it.

This video is very outdated and uses subpar parts. 9600k and 2080 really aren't considered anymore, only exception is a good used/refurb/open box 2080 in lower budgets. The hyper 212 uses an outdated (iirc over a decade old) design and gets outperformed by cheaper coolers like the Thermalright Assassin Spirit 120 and ID-Cooling SE-224XT. I don't know enough about z390 to make a comment about the mobo. The Vengeance LPX ram is a terrible choice due to the chips on the ram which are called ICs are randomized. This leads to garbage and good ICs under the same model name which can lead to stability issues if a bad IC is set to the rated XMP speed that it can't handle. The pcb of the vengenace kits aren't good iirc. The psu simply isn't a good model (I can't explain why as I'm not into psus but the stuff like topology, emi filtering, etc) and there's better options. The ssd I don't understand why you would buy a 128gb ssd that is somewhat subpar iirc and a 1tb hdd when you could just spend more from saving on other components and get a MP33, SN550, Helix-L or similar in 1tb. The case is discountinued and iirc is outperformed thermally by many other cases for less.

 

[Sheep]

This video is very outdated and uses subpar parts. 9600k and 2080 really aren't considered anymore, only exception is a good used/refurb/open box 2080 in lower budgets. The hyper 212 uses an outdated (iirc over a decade old) design and gets outperformed by cheaper coolers like the Thermalright Assassin Spirit 120 and ID-Cooling SE-224XT. I don't know enough about z390 to make a comment about the mobo. The Vengeance LPX ram is a terrible choice due to the chips on the ram which are called ICs are randomized. This leads to garbage and good ICs under the same model name which can lead to stability issues if a bad IC is set to the rated XMP speed that it can't handle. The pcb of the vengenace kits aren't good iirc. The psu simply isn't a good model (I can't explain why as I'm not into psus but the stuff like topology, emi filtering, etc) and there's better options. The ssd I don't understand why you would buy a 128gb ssd that is somewhat subpar iirc and a 1tb hdd when you could just spend more from saving on other components and get a MP33, SN550, Helix-L or similar in 1tb. The case is discountinued and iirc is outperformed thermally by many other cases for less.

Insane, I've been using the i5 9600k & rtx 2070 armor for years and it's absolutely blown me away. I'm mostly likely going to pick up a 2080ti for 500 euros in a week, is it not worth even considering it?

 

[PradyXT]

Your PSU I switched out as well. It's not really worth getting a Titanium or Platinum rating if you're under 1000 Watts (I mean really it doesn't matter but that's how I see it. Gold Rating is definitely fine). You have money left over to upgrade to a 1k watt if you want.

The rating is usually more apparant in higher end 1kw+ psus due to the generalized understanding that 80+ rating determines quality but it is just efficiency and really unrelated to the overall quality. Many good psus are gold rated and a bad psu like Gigglebyte's PGM had a gold rating but had some component that would blow.

Your cooler could either be an AIO (I personally would do it) or the Noctua cooler selected. Like Sheep said, you don't want to skimp out on cooling. Plus you have a Ryzen 9... that boy gonna get toasty when it's under load.

That depends on the aio. Some aios have bad coldplate contact, bad stock fans, bad fin density, etc (I don't know much about aio design). Noctua doesn't automatically mean better. Stuff like their Nh-U12s Redux is overpriced for the performance it offers (same with the normal nf-p12 redux fans iirc) same overpriced for performance thing with their NH-D15 which has competitive offerings performing similarly for significantly less iirc. Examples of good coolers from cheapest to highest in US market are the Thermalright Assassin Spirit 120, ID-Cooling SE-224XT, Deepcool AK400, Deepcool AS500 (iirc), Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120, Arctic Esports 34 Duo, Scythe Fuma 2 rev.b, and Deepcool AK620. There are likely more options I completely forgot about.

Like I said, you want the vroom vroom RAM so I got you on some sticks that would be perfect. If you want to go faster, be my guest but 3600 is a good speed. They are also CL16 so less latency (CL16 is the preferred latency rating). The faster ones start getting pricey and more RGB and like I said, wasn't sure if you're big on the RGB.

Cas latency is not what determines latency. 3600 mt/s cl18 vs 3200 mt/s cl16 ram with proportionate subtimings, identical IC, cooling (If the IC is temp sensitive. An IC like Rev.E from Micron is not temp sensitive while Rev.B is), etc will perform similarly. You have to account for the rated mt/s, cas latency, subtimings (like cl16-18-18-36), etc.

Post automatically merged: May 31, 2022

Insane, I've been using the i5 9600k & rtx 2070 armor for years and it's absolutely blown me away. I'm mostly likely going to pick up a 2080ti for 500 euros in a week, is it not worth even considering it?

Which country are you located in? The 500 euro value proposition of the 2080ti depends on your local country's market.

 

[Satan]

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/nzBvRv

Here is the latest list, with mix of opinions from here, friend of the scalper, and Diz in dms

and according to Diz the Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler is a sufficient beast of a fan and can cool the CPU without problems. He recommended it over the dual fan/liquid cooler component.

 

[PradyXT]

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/nzBvRv

Here is the latest list, with mix of opinions from here, friend of the scalper, and Diz in dms

and according to Diz the Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler is a sufficient beast of a fan and can cool the CPU without problems. He recommended it over the dual fan/liquid cooler component.

This suffers from the same issues I listed before except the case and the psu being unnecessary tbh. The NH-D15 is overpriced for its performance. According to GN benchmarks, the Liquid Freezer ii and EK Aio outperform the NH-D15 at a similar price point. EVGA's clc cooler is also an option as it is cheaper than all 3 coolers previously listed but is somewhat worse than the two aios listed. Also I doubt you will need the extra fan as (iirc) the torrent performs well at stock and includes 5 total fans

 

[Satan]

Special reminder that there isnt much reason to go above the FPS capabilities of your monitor. You're just making your computer work harder, which costs more energy, produces more heat, and will decrease the lifespan of the pc (though not by much on the lifespan). You don't need 1k FPS when your monitor only shows 144.

Its a personal flex that I want to achieve. I understand Hz and FPS are the same functionally speaking. 144Hz monitor will only visually show 144 FPS.